Hauv kev lag luam xaws, tshuab xaws thiab seams nyob deb ntawm qhov kawg. Cov tsos ntawm tag nrho cov khoom yog nyob ntawm seb tus seamstress paub lawv zoo npaum li cas thiab paub yuav ua li cas nws smoothly. Tab sis txhawm rau paub lawv zoo, koj yuav tsum nkag siab txog kev faib tawm thiab qhov sib txawv ntawm kev ua tiav tshuab.
Ntau yam seams
Nyob ntawm lub hom phiaj ntawm kev ua haujlwm, cov yam ntxwv ntawm cov khoom thiab qhov zoo ntawm cov ntaub, cov cuab yeej sib txawv sib txawv raug xaiv. Raws li kev faib tawm, tshuab seams yog txuas, ntug thiab kho kom zoo nkauj tiav. Lawv siv rau ntau qhov chaw ntawm cov khoom.
Kev sib txuas seams sib sau cov khoom rau hauv ib qho tag nrho. Qhov no yog lub hauv paus ntawm kev lag luam tsoos tsho raws li. Yog tsis muaj cov stitches, nws ua tsis tau dab tsi hlo li.
Rim yog tsim los muab qhov kawg ntawm cov khoom ua tiav, zoo zoo. Xws li lub tshuab seam ua haujlwm tsis yog tsuas yog ua cov khoom zoo nkauj xwb, tab sis kuj yog kev tiv thaiv kev hnav sai.
Tiav seams tsis nqa cov haujlwm tshwj xeeb tsim. Hloov chaw, lawv ua haujlwm ntxivkho kom zoo nkauj dua li ib txoj hauv kev ntxiv dag zog rau kev ncaj ncees ntawm cov khoom.
Txawm hais tias muaj ntau ntau cov seams, lawv txhua tus muaj qee qhov kev xav tau. Ua ntej ntawm tag nrho cov, nws yog lub meej evenness ntawm kab. Txawm hais tias rab koob zigzags lossis cov qauv, cov kab nruab nrab yuav tsum nyob ncaj thiab tsis txhob dhia ntawm ib sab mus rau sab.
Thiab qhov thib ob yog qhov tseeb ntawm kev ua tiav. Koj tsis tuaj yeem sau cov khoom uas koj xav tau. Tus tsim qauv ua ntej xam qhov chaw uas qhov no ua tiav. Kev sib txawv ntawm txoj kev npaj ua rau kev puas tsuaj rau cov khoom tiav.
Txoj hlua uas tuav daim ua ke
Ib qho kev faib tawm ntawm lub tshuab seams pib nrog kev sib txuas seams. Lawv txawv los ntawm ntau hom. Txawm hais tias, kom ncaj ncees, tag nrho cov no yog tsim los ntawm 2-3 lub ntsiab seams.
Qhov tseem ceeb tshaj plaws yog cov seam. 80% ntawm tag nrho cov khoom yog txuas nrog nws. Overlapping seam yog qhov sib txawv ntawm yav dhau los, tsim rau cov khoom xaws hauv cov chaw uas lawv muab rau hauv kev sib txhuam loj tshaj plaws
Ob chav inverted seam yog siv hauv cov ntaub pua chaw, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog cov ntaub pua chaw pw. Nws muaj siab hnav tsis kam thiab yog qhov yooj yim heev hauv kev ua tiav. Lub tshuab xaws kuj tseem tuaj yeem hu ua cov hniav zoo nkauj, vim nws tsis muaj qhov hais tawm hauv ntej thiab sab nraub qaum. Ib qho cuav suture yog siv qhov twg cov flaps yuav tsum tau superimposed rau ib leeg. Nws yog ua nyob rau sab pem hauv ntej ntawm cov khoom.
Tag nrho lwm cov tshuab xaws, cov qauv uas paub txog cov kws tshaj lij seamstresses, yog cov qauv nyuaj ntawm cov uas tau hais los saum no. Lawv qhov expediency tsuas yog muaj tseeb xwb nyob rau hauv tej rooj plaub, thiab ignorance ntawm thev naus laus zis rau lawv cov kev siv tsis ua rau cov craftswoman tsawg txawj.
Txoj hlua txuas tseem ceeb
Lub tshuab xaws xaws tuaj yeem ua tau los ntawm tus poj niam uas tsawg kawg ib zaug zaum ntawm lub tshuab xaws. Nws yog ua raws li hauv qab no: ob qhov chaw yog folded lub ntsej muag sab hauv thiab stitched nrog ib tug tsis tu ncua plooj. Ntawm no, lub tswvyim ntawm "seam width" tshwm. Qhov no yog qhov kev ncua deb ntawm ntug ntawm cov khoom mus rau qhov chaw uas txoj kab hla. Raws li ib txwm muaj, nws yog 0.5-1 cm, tab sis nyob ntawm cov ntaub thiab cov khoom nws tus kheej, nws tuaj yeem yog tuab lossis nyias.
Cov nyiaj seam yuav tsum tau ua thaum lub sijhawm txiav, txwv tsis pub qhov loj ntawm cov khoom yuav me me dua li qhov tau npaj tseg.
Lub backstitch yog ib qho txawv ntawm backstitch. Tom qab ob qhov chaw tau koom nrog lub stitched seam, lawv tig sab xis tawm kom qhov khoov yog raws nraim ntawm qhov chaw uas txoj kab hla. Qhov no yog ua li cas cuffs, hnab ris, straps yog ua. Nyob rau tib lub sijhawm, qhov dav ntawm lub seam yog ntau dua. Nws sib npaug 0.3-0.4 cm.
paub tsuas yog ob txoj hlua khi no, koj tuaj yeem ua khaub ncaws feem ntau.
rov qab plooj
Hauv kev xyaum, tshuab xaws yuav nyuaj dua. Ob chav rov qab plooj tsis yog qhov nyuaj tshaj plaws, tab sis yuav xav tau qee qhov kev txawj ua kom zoo.
Ua ntej, quav ob daim tsis ncaj ncees lawm ua ke. Peb ua cov seam tsis tu ncua mus txog 0.5 cm dav, tom qab ntawd peb khoov cov khoom thiab los ntawm qhov tsis ncaj ncees lawm sab peb ua tib lub seam, tab sis 1 hli ntxiv tshaj nws nyob rau theem dhau los. Yog li, cov npoo ntawm qhov yuav tsum tau sewn yog muab zais rau hauv ib lub hnab tshos txhim khu kev qha ua los ntawmfabrics.
Siv ob txoj hlua khi no feem ntau hauv cov ntaub pua tsev uas raug ntxuav tas li, uas txhais tau hais tias lub nra ntawm cov npoo dawb yog ntau dua li ntawm cov khoom siv niaj hnub.
Nws kuj tuaj yeem pom ntawm cov menyuam yaus cov khaub ncaws, tab sis nyob rau pem hauv ntej. Ua li no, nti tawm ntawm sab hauv thiab sloppy npoo tau muab zais.
xaws xaws
Nws tau raug pov thawj tias tshuab txuas seams tuaj yeem ua kom zoo nkauj. Ib qho piv txwv ntawm qhov no yog stitching (aka jeans) seam. Nws tau txais nws lub npe thib ob vim nws nquag siv hauv denim trousers. Raws li koj paub, lub puab seam ntawm cov khoom no yuav tsum muaj zog heev thiab txhim khu kev qha.
Lub thev naus laus zis rau nws qhov kev siv tsis yooj yim, tab sis tsis yog qhov nyuaj tshaj plaws. Nws tag nrho pib nrog qhov tseeb tias cov khoom yuav tsum tau koom nrog tsis quav ntsej tus yam ntxwv ntawm ntug. Cov hauv qab yuav tsum protrude txog li 7 mm. Retreating 7-8 mm los ntawm sab saum toj ntug, cov ntsiab lus yog stitched. Tom qab ntawd, cov ntug hauv qab yog qhwv mus rau lub seam thiab npog nrog rau sab saum toj. Qhov kev tsim kho tag nrho no yog sewn ua ntej ntawm ib sab, tom qab ntawd rau lwm qhov.
Yog tias koj pom nws, ces lub seam no yog hom eversion. Tsuas yog ntawm no qhov stitching yog ua tiav nyob rau hauv xws li ib txoj kev uas tag nrho cov folds nyob twj ywm nyob rau hauv tib lub dav hlau nrog cov khoom.
Tseem nrov seams
Kev sib txuas tshuab seams, cov tswv yim uas peb tau tshuaj xyuas saum toj no, yog qhov nrov tshaj plaws. Lawv yog siv nyob rau hauv feem ntau. Tab sis tsis muaj tsawg nthuav thiab lwm hom seams.
Ua ntej ntawm tag nrho, koj yuav tsum tau xyuam xim rau thaj chaw seam. Nws ciam teb rau kev kho kom zoo nkauj thiab ua tiav, tab sis tseem ua haujlwm txuas ob ntu. Nws yog ua nyob rau sab pem hauv ntej. Nws muaj ob hom: nrog ib tug zais ntug thiab nrog ib tug dawb. Nyob rau sab pem hauv ntej ntawm cov khoom, lub ntsej muag, qhov uas yuav tsum tau sewn yog superimposed. Yog tias koj xub sew sab hauv lossis du cov npoo, ces lawv yuav raug kaw.
hnab tshos, coquettes thiab cov hniav zoo nkauj yog sewn rau hauv txoj kev no.
Lub topstitch yog ib qho kho kom zoo nkauj version ntawm lub plooj. Tom qab cov khoom raug sewn, cov npoo ntawm lub seam yog smoothed thiab sewn nruj me ntsis thaum uas tig mus rau lub ntsiab seam, nyob rau tib qhov deb ntawm nws.
Tiav cov npoo ntawm cov khoom
Ntxiv kev faib tawm ntawm lub tshuab seams hais txog qhov hu ua ntug. Lawv lub luag haujlwm tseem ceeb yog tsim cov ntug dawb ntawm cov khoom, xws li lub kaus mom ntawm daim tiab, hauv qab ntawm lub ris lossis lub neckline. Ob qhov pom ntawm cov khoom thiab nws cov durability nyob ntawm seb ua tib zoo thiab ntseeg tau qhov no ua tiav.
Muaj ob yam tseem ceeb: hem thiab edging. Tsis muaj lwm daim ntaub siv rau hemming. Kev ua haujlwm yog nqa tawm nrog ntug dawb. Rau edging, nws yog ib qho tsim nyog yuav tsum muaj edging, uas yog tsim los ntawm tib cov ntaub raws li cov khoom tseem ceeb, los yog los ntawm lwm yam flaps. Nws tsuas yog nyob ntawm lub tswv yim qub ntawm tus tsim qauv zam.
Tawm ntawm ntug ntawm cov khoom yam tsis muaj kev ua haujlwm yog qhov ua tsis tau zoo, vim tias cov ntaub yuav tawg thiab tawg, uas yog kiag licuam tshuam tsis zoo rau cov khaub ncaws thiab ris tsho hauv qab.
Lub tshuab loj ntug seams
Hmming ib yam khoom yog ib lub luag haujlwm tseem ceeb. Nws yog tsim los ntawm kev khoov cov ntaub rau sab tsis ncaj ncees lawm. Muaj ntau hom hems. Yog tias koj yooj yim quav cov ntaub thiab xaws nws txog 0.5 cm ntawm qhov khoov, koj yuav tau txais ib lub seam nrog qhib ntug. Nws zoo nkaus li zoo ntawm lub hem ntawm lub tiab thiab hnav ris tsho, vim nws yog lub teeb thiab loj. Tab sis nws tseem zoo dua rau overlock ntug dawb ua ntej kom tsis txhob poob.
Lub ntug zais tau ua raws li hauv qab no. Cov ntaub yog tucked nyob rau hauv, li ntawm 0.5 cm, thiab ces dua, tab sis twb los ntawm 1-1.5 cm. Cov kab yog tsim los ntawm tsis ncaj ncees lawm sab nrog ib tug seam dav ntawm txog 1-2 mm. Qhov no ua kom cov npoo tau khaws cia.
Thiab txoj hauv kev kawg rau hem yog ob lub seam. Nws yog ua nyob rau hauv tib txoj kev raws li yav dhau los ib tug, tab sis lub stitching yog ua los ntawm ob sab ntawm ob khoov. Qhov tshwm sim yog ib kab txaij ntawm ntug, txwv los ntawm ob kab. Txoj kev no feem ntau yog siv hauv cov ris tsho hnav ris tsho thiab cov ris tsho ntxhib. Lawv kuj ua ib lub hnab tshos kom ntxig ib txoj hlua elastic.
Nyob zoo ib tsoom niam txiv kwv tij neej tsas sawv daws
Cov khoom edging yog ntau ntawm kev kho kom zoo nkauj dua li qhov xav tau. Kev siv hem seams yog qhov ncaj ncees dua, tab sis lawv tsis yog ib txwm ua kom pom tseeb ntawm lawv qhov zoo nkauj thiab yuav ua li cas cov ntaub coj tus cwj pwm thaum kho li no.
Banding yog siv rau cov khaub ncaws knitwear, nrog rau hauv cov blouses lub teeb kom ua rau lawv tsis yooj yim dua.
Kev siv thev naus laus zistshuab seams los ntawm txoj kev edging belongs rau qeb ntawm complex ones. Yog vim li cas rau qhov no yog kev tswj ntawm peb lub ntsiab lus nyob rau tib lub sij hawm, uas yuav tsum tau ua tib zoo txuas rau ib leeg. Tib lub sijhawm, ntug nws tus kheej yuav tsum nkaum nws cov npoo hauv qhov ua tiav.
Yuav ua kom txoj hauj lwm yooj yim dua, cov npoo yog ironed ntawm lub edging nrov plig plawg kom lawv tuav ruaj ntseg ntawm sab tsis ncaj ncees lawm. Tom qab ntawd nws yog qhov tsim nyog los cheb txhua qhov ntawm cov khoom thiab tsuas yog tom qab ntawd mus rau kab. Qhov dav ntawm lub seam thaum edging yog 0.1-0.2 cm, qhov no yuav tsum tau ib tug tej yam txuj ci los ntawm seamstress.
Cov tshuab xaws niaj hnub tuaj yeem tsim tsis yog ib lub tshuab xaws, tab sis ntau lub kaum os. Qhov no txhais tau hais tias nyob rau hauv cov chaw uas cov kab yuav pom, nws tsis yog yuav tsum tau ua kom nws ib tug ncaj kab. Yog tias tsim nyog, koj tuaj yeem pib zigzag, yoj lossis crescent. Qhov no yuav ua rau sab nrauv ntawm cov khaub ncaws txawv txawv thiab ntxim nyiam.
Kho kom zoo nkauj stitches tuaj yeem siv los ua cov khoom ntawm cov paj ntaub yooj yim. Ua li no, koj tuaj yeem xyaum me ntsis kom nkag siab raws nraim li cas cov ntaub tshwj xeeb coj tus cwj pwm nrog hom tshuab seam. Ob peb feeb ntawm kev tawm dag zog yuav tso cai rau koj kom tau txais qhov tshwm sim txawv txawv, vim nws yuav yog hom kev sau paj ntaub nrog lub tshuab xaws zoo tib yam.
Khoom siv tshuab xaws
Qhov tseem ceeb tshaj plaws uas yuav tsum paub yog cov khoom siv kho kom zoo nkauj yog ib txwm pom. Yog li ntawd, yog koj ua lawv, ces tsuas yog ib puas feem pua qualitatively.
Koj tuaj yeem siv lawv txhua qhov chaw: ua tus cuavhnab tshos los yog xaws rau hauv ib lub zipper uas tsis qhib ib yam dab tsi, xaws nrog thiab hla cov khoom, tsim cov nyhuv ntawm patchwork los yog quilting.
Qhov tseem ceeb tshaj plaws yog tsis txhob ntshai mus sim thiab kwv yees seb qhov tshwm sim no lossis kab ntxiv yuav muab rau ntawm lub tsho los yog cov ris tsho ua tiav.
